I must say, hand-coding websites has become increasingly easier and more fun for me as I've learned new techniques for creating dynamic content. It used to be that I'd have a certain look to a site for which I had to change the code on each page, and that's naturally a pain in the posterior. Then I learned a bit of Javascript and I learned how to include content from an exterior file, though it's still a pain to code everything correctly and then have to add "document.write();" to each and every line. Finally, I recently learned how to do it via PHP, which is quite nice, making templates easy to create and easy to edit, and making the body pages I create very simple, as I can include all header information in the template.
So give it a whirl, maybe design a simple sample site in a graphics editor (or even on paper! What a concept...) and use a WYSIWYG program to put it together. If you like doing that, start learning to code, as you will find creating web pages (and editing them later to add stuff the WYSIWYG programs can't do) very easy. Then you can start learning the more advanced goodies like Javascript and PHP.