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The volume under the drive being shaded in disk utility just means it wouldn't mount. Doesn't necessarily mean it was bad. There were other options besides nuking and paving OSX. First option would have been disk first aid in disk utility (the repair option under the first aid tab). Had that...

Its got a bad hard drive.

I've done hundreds of those screen replacements. Not the most difficult but not for the faint of heart. Requires some careful prying with a putty knife making sure not to damage the bezel (the screen doesn't matter as it would be replaced anyway). If you damage the bezel its damn near impossible...

You really, really, really need to have your account be named anything but administrator or root. Even if you don't have root enabled there will be problems.

Yes, the part alone would be around $1000 even for an Apple authorized shop. That's why our hands are tied in these situations. Apple wants it that way. Yes, the depot option is a flat rate mail in repair. Its usually always cheaper than $500 and if happens to need more than a logic board...

The cheapest option is going to be through the Apple store or an Apple authorized service provider. When we get in machines that need out of warranty logic board replacements, the cheapest option in an Apple depot mail in. Even though we are Apple authorized it would cost twice as much for us to...

What are the hardware specs of this iMac?

I'd suspect the drive is the problem. Obviously the kernel panics happen when trying to boot from the drive. Could also just need a system reinstall?

Again, in disk utility does it show the drives partition scheme as MBR, APM, or GUID? In the right panel in disk utility click on the drive itself, not the underlying volume. Doing this will show the partition scheme and will give you options to repartition.

Start by reseating the RAM, trying new RAM, or trying one RAM module at a time.

I'd do a PRAM reset first. If that doesn't work boot to the OSX installer and reset your passord to be blank. If its anything but Lion I think you can reset to a blank password.

I guess nobody saw this as an easier way... Plug the HDD into the SATA usb adapter to bypass the internal sata cable and controller. Then try to install OSX that way on the MBPro. Also, when booted to the installer, check in disk utility and make sure the drive is partitioned as GUID and not MBR.

Certainly looks that way.

Yeah, that would make a difference. Some of those iMacs had issues with the optical drive cables to where a bad cable would make the machine not boot to anything. I think it has a lot to do with that being the first year they moved the optical onto the SATA bus as opposed to the old fashioned...

You really shouldn't go messing around with root if you don't even understand what the problem is now. Even if you do somehow get it untangled by going underneath the hood with root, you are bound to have all kinds of permissions issues. Like I stated previously, wipe it, reinstall, and let...

If you have a backup or your info on the G5, the easiest thing to do is to reformat the new iMac and then reinstall the OS and not create a user. Then boot the iMac G5 into target disk mode. Connect the two iMacs with firewire (more tan likely need a 400-800 cable or an adapter). Then when...

You really need to drop it. This is just a way you are trying to find an angle around the rules. You seem to be obsessed with finding ways to steal or hack whats not free or meant to be used. I doubt there is even a remote possibility this thread is going to be useful, helpful, ethical, or...

The only reason it shows in the boot list is because the system sees a version of OSX installed on the volume. I see failing hard drives and volumes with completely incorrect versions of OSX show up in boot manager all the time that won't boot a machine.

I've seen the error before. If I remember correctly the machine I was installing on didn't seem to like the installer or the dock I was using. I have my installers loaded on two 3.5" SATA HDD plugged into a USB dock. I tried my secondary installer drive on either the same SATA dock or different...

Some mod on this forum needs to swing the banhammer on this member. I had a feeling he was a troll a couple weeks ago, that's why I quit responding to his questions a while ago. Activity like this keeps up, this site will lose members that do contribute useful info. Anybody else on this thread...